Book Club: 5 Mountaineering Novels for When the Mountains are Calling

The extent to which people are willing to put themselves at risk is intriguing. One of the most extreme studies of this might be mountaineering. What is at the top of that mountain they are so prepared to die for? It becomes abundantly clear in their accounts that they share no consensus. There is something raw and moving in their stories, something that makes our bed a little more comfortable, the walk to work a little less difficult. Here are 5 books that illustrate the indomitability of the human spirit and the fine line between triumph and tragedy.

1. Annapurna: The First Conquest of an 8,000-Meter Peak by Maurice Herzog

Account of: Maurice Herzog (1919–2012)
Mountain: Annapurna I, 8,091 meters (26,545 ft)
Accolades: First ascent of Annapurna, first 8,000-meter peak climbed
Summited: 1950
Casualties: Frostbite, loss of fingers and toes

This gripping account of the first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak showcases the sheer resilience of the human spirit. Herzog’s journey is not only about reaching the summit but also about surviving the harrowing descent, marked by severe frostbite and the subsequent amputation of several digits. His story is one of both glory and agony, a testament to human endurance.

2. Conquistadors of the Useless by Lionel TerrayJournal

Autobiography of: Lionel Terray (1921–1965)
Mountains Conquered: First ascent of Fitz Roy, Makalu, Jannu, Mount Huntington, part of the Annapurna I 1950 expedition, second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger
Cause of Death: Fatal fall while climbing in the Vercors, south of Grenoble

Terray’s autobiography delves into the philosophical side of climbing. He questions the pursuit of seemingly “useless” goals and yet finds profound fulfillment in them. His conquests are legendary, and his reflections on the ephemeral nature of triumph make this book a timeless classic in mountaineering literature.

3. The Shining Mountain by Peter Boardman

Mountain: Changabang, 6,864 meters (22,520 ft)
Notable Achievement: First ascent of the West Wall of Changabang

Boardman’s humorous yet profound account of his and Joe Tasker’s pioneering climb on Changabang’s West Wall offers readers a blend of adventure and introspection. Their minimalist, alpine-style ascent set a new benchmark in climbing, and Boardman’s narrative captures both the physical challenge and the emotional depth of their journey.

Drawing of the 1976 route up the West Wall of Changabang.

The 1976 route up the West Face of Changabang. Illustration: Pete Boardman

4. Touching My Father’s Soul: A Sherpa’s Journey to the Top of Everest by Jamling Tenzing Norgay

Mountain: Everest, 8,848 meters (29,029 ft)
Notable Achievement: Part of the 1996 IMAX Everest expedition

This unique memoir provides a Sherpa’s perspective on Everest, blending Jamling’s personal journey with his father Tenzing Norgay’s legendary 1953 ascent. The book highlights the spiritual aspect of climbing, the Sherpa culture, and the sacrifices often overshadowed by tales of Western climbers.

5. Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer

Mountain: Everest, 8,848 meters (29,029 ft)
Notable Event: 1996 Everest disaster

Krakauer’s firsthand account of the 1996 Everest disaster is both harrowing and haunting. As a journalist and participant, he captures the chaos, misjudgments, and human cost of that fateful expedition. The book serves as both a thrilling adventure and a sobering reminder of nature’s unforgiving power.